High up in the Carpathians

Today we traveled further west, deeper into the Carpathians. The Monastery of Voroneţ and the Jewish heritage of Vama and Câmpulung Moldovenesc were on our way. Again and we looked for the remaining traces of Jewish Bukovina, for cemeteries and synagogues.

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Arrival in Romania

I like Europe. A two hour flight brings you into a completely different world. Today I arrived in Cluj-Napoca (Kolozsvár, Klausenburg), a city in Transylvania (Siebenbürgen), Romania. My friends Petra and Achim picked me up at the airport, with them I will be traveling in the next 2 weeks.

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A last excursion to Galicia

Again, I was travelling with Vasyl and Renata. I highly appreciate both of them – because of their kindness and because of their excellent knowledge of local history. My journey is slowly coming to an end and it was a final opportunity to explore Galicia during this trip. Olesko and Busk were the places we went to.

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A few words about Rivne

What can I say about Rivne, the city where I stayed for my trips to Ostroh and Dubno? Very little is left from old Rivne. The city was rebuilt after the war in Stalin style. The suburbs consist mainly of Soviet apartment blocks from the Brezhnev era. In the center is a huge theater – sculptures dance on its roof into a bright future that never took place.

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In Dubno

In Dubno probably more historical substance is preserved then in much larger Rivne, where I stay in a hotel. At the market square a number of typical Jewish functional houses are still standing, with a shop in the ground floor and an apartment with balcony on the first floor. One of Dubno’s most important monuments is the former synagogue. It is easy to find and is located in close vicinity to the central market square.

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An excursion to Ostroh

The synagogue of Ostroh is in a sad state. However, the Jewish cemetery was found in surprisingly good condition during my today’s visit. I have rarely seen such a well-kept Jewish cemetery in Ukraine.

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A walk through Lutsk

Volhynia was ruled from Lutsk for centuries. The impressive fortress that was never conquered throughout its history, still bears witness of this periode. The massive towers of the fortress are without doubt the landmark of the city, but there is more to discover. Join me on a walk through Lutsk with its multiethnic past and present!

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Krakow – No Sentimental Journey

In Krakow, my love to Eastern Europe and its Jewish heritage begun about 20 years ago. Since then I have been there again and again. Last weekend I was back in Krakow. Much has changed since my first visit. Krakow is now a city of mass tourism and it is also the Jewish past and present, which attracts visitors from all over the world.

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Uhniv, Buchach and Hrymailiv in black and white

The black and white films and scans from my recent trip to Ukraine are back from the photo lab. The synagogue and the Beit Midrash (House of Study) in Uhniv, the Jewish cemetery in Buchach and the imposing synagogue in Hrymailiv are among the subjects. Here is a first selection.

A hidden prayer room

In Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) are the remains of the most famous and oldest synagogue in the territory of Ukraine, the “Golden Rose”. Of the approximately 70 synagogues in the city only two more have survived the German occupation, almost every guidebook mentions them. Virtually unknown, however, is a prayer room which is hidden in a basement.

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