Podgorze is the other Krakow. West of Vistula river – opposite the old town – there are no magnificent old buildings, no picturesque places and no cozy cafes for locals and tourists. Severity hangs over the houses from the 19th century and the interwar period. Many facades are blackened by the smoke of industry, some house are empty – the windows boarded up. Podgorze is the district in which the Nazis established a ghetto – for its Jewish inhabitants it was the beginning of the end. Further west is Plaszow, the territory of a former concentration camp.