At the End of the Journey

Posted on February 24, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Synagogues

My last day in Ukraine. Again, this day fluctuates between past and present. I visit the last remaining functioning synagogue in Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) and experience the grief of the people for those slained on Maidan.

Tsori Gilod (Healing Balm) Synagogue

Lviv mourning the dead

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Return to Lviv

Posted on February 23, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Northern Bukovina

My trip is coming to an end. This morning I strolled with a group of architecture students through Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), now I ‘m after a few hours on the train already back in Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow). Ukrainians continue to mourn those killed on Maidan.

Mourning in Chernivtsi

Train ride through Galicia

Mourning in Lviv

Volunteers keep public order up

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A last Excursion

Posted on February 22, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Northern Bukovina, Synagogues

When I asked Mykola Kushnir, the director of the Jewish Museum in Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), how I could see the wall paintings in the former synagogue of Novoselitsa, he invited me spontaneously to go there with him today. A really nice and generous offer – especially as Mykola has the key to the synagogue. Thanks, Mykola, for this wonderful excursion – the last on this journey!

Novoselitsa – synagogue

Novoselitsa – Jewish cemetery

Czernowitz – ceremony for a man killed on Maidan

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Between Past and Present

Posted on February 21, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Northern Bukovina

The second day in Chernivtsi (Czernowitz): I continue to swing between the past and present of the city, between the remains of the Jewish past and the ongoing protests.

A young lady plays piano, young men are listening

In the morning at Central Square – people commemorate the victims of the last days

Czernowitz Jewish cemetery

“Open microphone” at Central Square

New Holocaust project of the Jewish Museum

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Back in Czernowitz

Posted on February 20, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Northern Bukovina

Almost five hours my little marshrutka needed to make the way from Ternopil to Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). The reason is not the distance (175 km) but the conditions of Ukrainian roads. It’s nice to be back in Czernowitz, it’s almost like coming home. Here too, the protest movement is active.

My marshrutka

To Chernivtsi (Czernowitz)

Protesters in front of the town hall

Regional administration

Protesters in front of the town hall

Young militants waiting for orders

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A first trip to Podolia

Posted on February 19, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Jewish Cemeteries, Podolia, Synagogues

Writing is difficult for me today. More than 20 people have been killed in Kiev yesterday, the special police forces continue to besiege Maidan, the center of protests. It is impossible to ignore. Unfortunately I can not do more than express my solidarity with the brave Ukrainians, who are fighting against a corrupt and criminal government, and to report on what I see and experience. That’s why I hold on to my travel plans. Today I was in Sataniv.

My marshrutka to Sataniv

Sataniv – synagogue

Sataniv – Jewish cemetery

Ternopil – local Maidan

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In Ternopil

Posted on February 18, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries

From Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) I continue to Ternopil, have a look at the town and buy me a ticket to go to Sataniv tomorrow. After I returne from the Jewish cemetery, I learn what happened in Kyiv today. Again, people have been shot to death.

Ternopil – people fishing at the frozen lake

Ternopil – territory of former synagogue

Ternopil – Jewish cemetery

Ternopil – local Euromaidan

Ternopil – architecture from Stalin era

Ternopil – architecture from Habsburg era

Ternopil

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A relaxed day in Lviv

Posted on February 17, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

A day without excursions, a calm day – desperately needed after three very long and exhausting days. My friend Jürgen flies back to Germany in the afternoon, for me, the journey continues tomorrow. Jürgen and I strolled a bit through Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) today.

Fragments of tombstones at the territory of the former Jewish cemetery

Old shop sign

Rynok – market square of Lviv

View from the Magnus

A graffiti commemorates a murdered protester.

View from my room in George Hotel to Shevchenko Boulevard

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At the foot of the Carpathian Mountains

Posted on February 16, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries

Another long day trip through Galicia. My friend Jürgen and I are up early to make our way to the train station and take the next marshrutka to Staryi Sambir – a place 90 km southwest of Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow).

Staryi Sambir – Jewish cemetery

Staryi Sambir synagogue

Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow), Euromaidan

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North of Lviv

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Synagogues

A long day trip through Galicia – north of Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) – to the towns of Sokal, Velyki Mosty and Zhovkva. Bright sunshine, the winter is coming to an end. We pass a down going industrial landscape, traces of the past and the dawn of a new, still undetermined Ukraine.