North of Lviv

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Synagogues

A long day trip through Galicia – north of Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) – to the towns of Sokal, Velyki Mosty and Zhovkva. Bright sunshine, the winter is coming to an end. We pass a down going industrial landscape, traces of the past and the dawn of a new, still undetermined Ukraine.

Sokal synagogue

Sokal – guards in front of an occupied public building

Sokal – older ladies in front of an occupied public building

Sokal – remains of Jewish headstones

Velyki Mosty – synagogue

Zhovkva – traces of a mezuzah at the market square

Zhovkva – remains of the Jewish cemetery

Zhovkva synagogue

Continue reading →

Back in a different Ukraine

Posted on February 14, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

I’m back in Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow), and in front of me is another 10-day journey through Western Ukraine. Even though almost everything is superficialy unchanged since last year, I return in a completely different Ukraine.

Images and candles at the entrance of the Armenian church commemorate a young man of Armenian origion who was recently killed by the riot police in Kyiv.

Barricades at the occupied regional administration

Continue reading →

Plans for 2014

Posted on December 31, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Northern Bukovina

A new year, new plans. In the second half of February 2014 I will travel in Ukraine again – to places that are familiar to me and others that are unknown territory yet. Do you have recommendations?

1. Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), 2. Staryi Sambir, 3. Velyki Mosty, 4. Burshtyn, 5. Buchach, 6. Hrymailiv, 7. Sataniv, 8. Husiatyn, 9. Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), 10. Novoselitsa

Continue reading →

A Gate between the Worlds

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Central Europe, Jewish Cemeteries

Should Austria’s capital Vienna be part of a blog that deals with the Jewish heritage of Eastern Europe? Necessarily, because Vienna was not only the gateway from Central Europe to the eastern provinces of the Habsburg Empire, it was also the gateway to the West for many Jewish immigrants in search of a better future. A travel report.

Rossau Cemetery

Central Cemetery

Plaque in Leopoldstadt

Palais Ephrussi

Continue reading →

I walked endlessly

Posted on October 8, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Northern Bukovina

Sylvia de Swaan was born in Czernowitz (Chernivtsi) in 1941. The worst time, if one were Jewish. Today she is a successful photographer in America. Sylvia has returned to take pictures – more than once. Images of trains, rails, her hometown, nightmares. Powerful images. In August 2013 she was in Czernowitz again and I was lucky enough to meet her. Once more we had many intensive conversations and experiences. A good reason for an interview a few monthes later, to see how her new works grow.

Buletin de Nastere 2013©Sylvia de Swaan

Prague to Berlin, 1994 ©Sylvia de Swaan

The Burial Chapel, Czernowitzi 2013 ©Sylvia de Swaan

Ilia, a history major, interviews people in Nepolokivtsi, UA about their memories of WWII and the Jewish people who once lived here. 2013 ©Sylvia de Swaan

The War Game, Czernowitz, 2013 ©Sylvia de Swaan

Fragment 2013 ©Sylvia de Swaan

Jewish Cemetery, Vashkivtsi, UA, 2013 ©Sylvia de Swaan

Continue reading →

One has to imagine Sisyphus as a happy man

Posted on September 27, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Jewish Cemeteries, Northern Bukovina

Since six years volunteers from all over the world work in the Jewish cemetery of Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). What do they experience and what is the progress in cleaning the cemetery from rampant vegetation?

How to start? Making a plan …

Volunteers working

Mass grave in Storozhynets

Excursion to Kosiv

Excursion to Vyzhnytsia

Excursion to Sadagora

Continue reading →

Memories of a lost childhood: the German occupation of Poland in World War II from the perspective of a Jewish child

Posted on August 28, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

Professor Józef Lipman was a child, when German troops occupied his hometown Boryslav (Boryslaw) in Eastern Galicia. Lipman is one of 150 survivors of the former Jewish community of Boryslaw which before the war had 18,000 members. In 2007, in a speech in Görlitz, Saxony, he described his experiences. Every line of it is worth reading – in order to never forget.

Before the war: Józef Lipman with cousin Rózia Grynszpan, mother and aunts. Behind Józef (from left to right): aunt Regina, mother Etka Lipman, aunt Fanka and aunt Zofia © Józef Lipman

Cousin Tusiek Lippman with dog. Tusiek was shot in 1944. © Józef Lipman

Grandmother Ryfka (Rebeka) Lippman, imprisoned in cinema Collosseum, then shot with hundreds of Jewish citizens of Boryslaw. © Józef Lipman

Identity card for slave worker Abraham Lippman (father of Józef Lipman) © Józef Lipman

Former movie theater Collosseum, where Jews of Boryslaw where kept before extermination. Now the building is used as a greek-catholic church. © Klaus Hasbron-Blume

Continue reading →

A last day in Ukraine

Posted on August 16, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

It’s almost a tradition for me, to have a walk through Lychakiv cemetery in Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) on the last day of a trip. The place is always impressive. Because of its imposing tombs, but also because of the visible conflict between Poles and Ukrainians. Since a few hours I’m back home. But my mind is still in Ukraine.

A walk through Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Ukrainian military cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Polish military cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Hotel George

Lviv – Vienna, flight by Ausrian Airlines

Continue reading →

On the way to Lviv

Posted on August 15, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

The morning is gray and chilly when we leave Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). Light rain falls. Our train swings slowly towards Galicia. We are on the way to Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), the first stop on our way home.

Train through Galicia

Train through Galicia

Continue reading →

Farewell Czernowitz!

Posted on August 14, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Northern Bukovina

Tomorrow we will leave for Lviv. Our last day in Chernivtsi (Czernowitz) is also our most relaxing one. For the first time it is a day without obligations. One last day to stroll through the streets – almost without having to think about an appointment.