A Winter Journey In Black And White

Posted on February 25, 2015 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Volhynia (Volyn)

At the turn of the year I traveled in Ukraine again. This time I was in Volhynia (Volhyn), a historical region between Galicia and Belarus. My trip took me to Trochenbrod, Lutsk, Rivne, Dubno and Ostroh. Back in Lviv, I made an excursion to Olesko and Busk in Galicia. Now I have completed a selection of black and white photos of the trip.

Busk synagogue

Dubno synagogue

Lutsk synagogue

Olesko synagogue

Ostroh synagogue

Trochenbrod (Trachimbrod)

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A few words about Rivne

Posted on January 1, 2015 by Christian Herrmann under Synagogues, Volhynia (Volyn)

What can I say about Rivne, the city where I stayed for my trips to Ostroh and Dubno? Very little is left from old Rivne. The city was rebuilt after the war in Stalin style. The suburbs consist mainly of Soviet apartment blocks from the Brezhnev era. In the center is a huge theater – sculptures dance on its roof into a bright future that never took place.

Rivne Theatre

Rivne Theatre – sculptures dance on its roof into a bright future that never took place

Rivne – main street

Last synagogue of Rivne

Rivne – former synagogue

Rivne – Orthodox church, one of the last buildings of old Rivne

Rivne – empty square on New Year’s Eve

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In Dubno

Posted on December 31, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Synagogues, Volhynia (Volyn)

In Dubno probably more historical substance is preserved then in much larger Rivne, where I stay in a hotel. At the market square a number of typical Jewish functional houses are still standing, with a shop in the ground floor and an apartment with balcony on the first floor. One of Dubno’s most important monuments is the former synagogue. It is easy to find and is located in close vicinity to the central market square.

Dubno synagogue

Dubno – old Jewish quarter

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An excursion to Ostroh

Posted on December 30, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues, Volhynia (Volyn)

The synagogue of Ostroh is in a sad state. However, the Jewish cemetery was found in surprisingly good condition during my today’s visit. I have rarely seen such a well-kept Jewish cemetery in Ukraine.

Ostroh synagogue

Ostroh Jewish cemetery

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A walk through Lutsk

Posted on December 29, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Synagogues, Volhynia (Volyn)

Volhynia was ruled from Lutsk for centuries. The impressive fortress that was never conquered throughout its history, still bears witness of this periode. The massive towers of the fortress are without doubt the landmark of the city, but there is more to discover. Join me on a walk through Lutsk with its multiethnic past and present!

Lutsk castle

Lutsk – Jewish community center

Lutsk – old town

Lutsk – former Jewish district

Lutsk – synagogue

Lutsk – memorial plaque at the synagogue

Lutsk – synagogue

Lutsk – protestant church

A warming cat on my shoes

Lutsk – house on an artist

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Into The Nothing

Posted on December 28, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Volhynia (Volyn)

Trochenbrod (Trachimbrod, Sofiyovka) was an all-Jewish town that was completely wiped out. Not a single stone has been preserved from a place with formerly 6,000 residents. Nevertheless Trochenbrod has a unique afterlife – the place became famous through Jonathan Safran Foer’s novel “Everything Is Illuminated” and the film adaptation by the same title. Like many others, I thought Trochenbrod was fiction. But Trochenbrod existed.