In Dubno

In Dubno probably more historical substance is preserved then in much larger Rivne, where I stay in a hotel. At the market square a number of typical Jewish functional houses are still standing, with a shop in the ground floor and an apartment with balcony on the first floor. One of Dubno’s most important monuments is the former synagogue. It is easy to find and is located in close vicinity to the central market square.

Continue reading

An excursion to Ostroh

The synagogue of Ostroh is in a sad state. However, the Jewish cemetery was found in surprisingly good condition during my today’s visit. I have rarely seen such a well-kept Jewish cemetery in Ukraine.

Continue reading

A walk through Lutsk

Volhynia was ruled from Lutsk for centuries. The impressive fortress that was never conquered throughout its history, still bears witness of this periode. The massive towers of the fortress are without doubt the landmark of the city, but there is more to discover. Join me on a walk through Lutsk with its multiethnic past and present!

Continue reading

Into The Nothing

Trochenbrod (Trachimbrod, Sofiyovka) was an all-Jewish town that was completely wiped out. Not a single stone has been preserved from a place with formerly 6,000 residents. Nevertheless Trochenbrod has a unique afterlife – the place became famous through Jonathan Safran Foer’s novel “Everything Is Illuminated” and the film adaptation by the same title. Like many others, I thought Trochenbrod was fiction. But Trochenbrod existed.

Continue reading

Lviv welcomed me with snow

After so many years of returning, it is a kind of homecoming when I go back to Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg). This time, Lviv welcomed me with snow. Upon my arrival at the airport heavy white snowflakes were falling and now it looks like it will not stop. A nice start for a new journey.

Continue reading

My book coming soon

Many of you followed my wanderings through Galicia and Bukovina and I’m grateful to you and your comments. With me was my old camera; I took photos whenever I was travelling in the last two years. Classic black and white photography. Thanks to the Rhineland Regional Association I’m now able to publish some of my photos as a book.

Continue reading

Krakow in black and white

Today I received the scans of the films shot during the recent trip to Krakow. Without further comments I post here a first selection of pictures. They were taken on a foggy day at the two Jewish cemeteries of the city and at the site of former Plaszow concentration camp. If you like to learn more about the trip you should read the posts from October 30 and November 1.

In The Mist

Podgorze is the other Krakow. West of Vistula river – opposite the old town – there are no magnificent old buildings, no picturesque places and no cozy cafes for locals and tourists. Severity hangs over the houses from the 19th century and the interwar period. Many facades are blackened by the smoke of industry, some house are empty – the windows boarded up. Podgorze is the district in which the Nazis established a ghetto – for its Jewish inhabitants it was the beginning of the end. Further west is Plaszow, the territory of a former concentration camp.

Continue reading

Krakow – No Sentimental Journey

In Krakow, my love to Eastern Europe and its Jewish heritage begun about 20 years ago. Since then I have been there again and again. Last weekend I was back in Krakow. Much has changed since my first visit. Krakow is now a city of mass tourism and it is also the Jewish past and present, which attracts visitors from all over the world.

Continue reading