At the foot of the Carpathian Mountains

Another long day trip through Galicia. My friend Jürgen and I are up early to make our way to the train station and take the next marshrutka to Staryi Sambir – a place 90 km southwest of Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow).

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North of Lviv

A long day trip through Galicia – north of Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow) – to the towns of Sokal, Velyki Mosty and Zhovkva. Bright sunshine, the winter is coming to an end. We pass a down going industrial landscape, traces of the past and the dawn of a new, still undetermined Ukraine.

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Back in a different Ukraine

I’m back in Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow), and in front of me is another 10-day journey through Western Ukraine. Even though almost everything is superficialy unchanged since last year, I return in a completely different Ukraine.

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Plans for 2014

A new year, new plans. In the second half of February 2014 I will travel in Ukraine again – to places that are familiar to me and others that are unknown territory yet. Do you have recommendations?
map of Galicia and Bukovina

1. Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), 2. Staryi Sambir, 3. Velyki Mosty, 4. Burshtyn, 5. Buchach, 6. Hrymailiv, 7. Sataniv, 8. Husiatyn, 9. Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), 10. Novoselitsa

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Memories of a lost childhood: the German occupation of Poland in World War II from the perspective of a Jewish child

Professor Józef Lipman was a child, when German troops occupied his hometown Boryslav (Boryslaw) in Eastern Galicia. Lipman is one of 150 survivors of the former Jewish community of Boryslaw which before the war had 18,000 members. In 2007, in a speech in Görlitz, Saxony, he described his experiences. Every line of it is worth reading – in order to never forget.

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A last day in Ukraine

It’s almost a tradition for me, to have a walk through Lychakiv cemetery in Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) on the last day of a trip. The place is always impressive. Because of its imposing tombs, but also because of the visible conflict between Poles and Ukrainians. Since a few hours I’m back home. But my mind is still in Ukraine.

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On the way to Lviv

The morning is gray and chilly when we leave Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). Light rain falls. Our train swings slowly towards Galicia. We are on the way to Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), the first stop on our way home.

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Back in Ukraine

Cologne – Vienna – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), Austrian Airlines brought me and my friends Ingo and Sabine safely to Ukraine today. It’s nice to be back, good to know that you will stay at the wonderful Hotel George, nice to know that you are welcome there. The first thing we tried to do: buy train tickets. Tomorrow afternoon we hopefully continue to Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). There are unforeseen problems with the train reservations, which we hope to solve tomorrow.

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It’s all gone, it’s still there

Galicia and Bukovina are covered with partially or totally destroyed Jewish cemeteries. The grave stones were abused as building material during the German occupation and the years of Soviet rule. However, history does not just disappear. During construction works fragments of Jewish grave stones come to light. These stones raise questions – first of all the question of how we want to deal with the past.


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