From Mohyliv-Podilskyi to Ivano-Frankivsk

Posted on May 30, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Podolia

May 24 was the longest day of our journey. 400 kilometers on Ukrainian roads can be challenging for drivers and passengers but we were glad to find the roads in much better condition than expected. Our route included the impressive Jewish cemetery of Mohyliv-Podilskyi, Khotyn fortress and Jewish heritage sites in Buchach and Chortkiv. Originally not planned was a stop in Kamianets-Podilskyi – one of the largest mass killing sites from the time of the German occupation.

Mohyliv-Podilskyi – Jewish cemetery

Khotyn Fortress

Kamianets-Podilskyi – mass killing site – Uwe talking about “Sonderaktion 1005”

Kamianets-Podilskyi – memorial at mass killing site

Chortkiv – trace of a mezuzah

Buchach – Jewish cemetery

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Otaci’s Jewish Cemetery

Posted on May 29, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Bessarabia, Jewish Cemeteries

We left Moldova’s capital Chişinău in the morning of May 23, 2018, and headed north towards the border to Ukraine. Before border crossing we had a stop in the town of Otaci which was known as a transit point for deportees to the Romanian camps and ghettos in Transnistria during World War II. What is often failed to see, is that Otaci looks back on a long Jewish history. The cemetery in the nearby village of Vălcineţ is a reminder.

Otaci Jewish cemetery

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Two Days in Bessarabia

Posted on May 28, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Bessarabia, Jewish Cemeteries

It turned out to be difficult to report from the road when traveling with a big group and having a dense itinerary. Now, already back home, I have time to take up the narration. Last time I wrote from Chişinău on May 21 but did not report what we experienced there. On May 22 we were out for a day trip to Vadul Raşcov Jewish cemetery and the cave monasteries of Tipova – both magic places.

Chişinău – market, view from my hotel window

Chişinău – being guided by Irina Shikhova

Chişinău – former synagogue of the Jewish hospital

Chişinău – former laundry of the Jewish hospital

Chişinău – former Jewish hospital

Chişinău Jewish cemetery – bullet holes in the gate of the ruined mortuary

Chişinău Jewish cemetery – ruined mortuary

Chişinău – being guided by Irina Shikhova

Chişinău Jewish cemetery

Chişinău Jewish cemetery – wall made of tombstone fragments

Vadul Raşcov – Jewish cemetery

Tipova – view over Dniester river

Tipova – cave monasteries

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On the Road to Chişinău

Posted on May 21, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Bessarabia, Jewish Cemeteries

Yesterday, our group moved on through Bessarabia. In Bălţi we visited the magnificent Jewish cemetery and then went further south to the Moldovan capital of Chişinău. En route were the Jewish agricultural colony of Mărculeşti and Orhei with its imposing cemetery.

Bălţi Jewish cemetery

Mărculeşti Jewish cemetery

Soviet monument near the town of Floreşti

Orhei Jewish cemetery

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From Bukovina to Bessarabia

Posted on May 19, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Bessarabia, Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Northern Bukovina

Yesterday, we followed the traces of the Hasidic courts in Bukovina and neighbouring Galicia. We have been to the towns of Sadgora, Kuty and Vyzhnytsia – and the day before we saw how the renovation of the magnificent mortuary of Chernivtsi cemetery makes progress. Today, we went on to Bessarabia in the Republic of Moldova. Lipcani and Briceni were on our way to Bălţi, where we are right now. Now, in spring the Jewish cemeteries are beautiful enchanted gardens. Here are some photo impressions.

Mortuary at Chernivtsi Jewish cemetery

Monument for psychoanalyst and writer Manes Sperber in Zabolotiv

Kuty Jewish cemetery

Vyzhnytsia Jewish cemetery

Lipcani Jewish cemetery

Briceni Jewish cemetery

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From Lviv to Chernivtsi

Posted on May 17, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Northern Bukovina, Synagogues

Our journey through Galicia, Bukovina and Bessarabia goes on. During the last two days we went further south. Between the regional metropolises of Lviv and Chernivtsi we visited the towns and villages of Busk, Olesko, Brody, Skalat, Hrymailiv, Sataniv, Husiatyn, Chabarivka, Zalishchyky and Yuzhynets. What a trip!

Busk – Jewish cemetery

Busk – Jewish cemetery – there is always somebody to tell the story

Olesko synagogue

Brody – Jewish cemetery

Skalat synagogue

Hrymailiv – interior of the synagogue

Sataniv – Jewish cemetery

Chabarivka – tombstone fragments from the destroyed Jewish cemetery of Husiatyn

Zalishchyky synagogue

Chorus in Yuzhynets

Yuzhynets – war memorial opposite of the former property of the Reich family

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A new Experience

Posted on May 14, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues

Today, a new journey to Jewish heritage sites has begun and it is different from all others before. I’m going to guide a group of 16 Germans through Galicia, Bukovina and Bessarabia in Ukraine and the Republic of Moldova. We started with day trips from Lviv – while one part of the group went to Drohobych and was guided there by the wonderful Tanya Firman, the other part went north to Zhovkva, Uhniv, Belz and Velyki Mosty.

Zhovkva – trace of a mezuzah

Zhovkva synagogue

Uhniv – beit midrash and synagogue

At Uhniv synagogue

Catholic church in Uhniv

In Uhniv

Belz Jewish cemetery

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Transcarpathia is different

Posted on April 2, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues, Transcarpathia

Yesterday was the last day of our 5 days trip through Transcarpathia. We visited Jewish and non-Jewish heritage sites in Bila Tserkva, Velykyi Bychkiv, Rakhiv, Yasynia, Halych and Bilshivtsi. On our way home we contemplated on what we saw and experienced. Transcarpathia differs in many aspects from Galicia.

Bila Tserkva – Jewish cemetery

Bila Tserkva – building with holocaust memorial

Bila Tserkva – holocaust memorial

Velykyi Bychkiv -former synagogue

Velykyi Bychkiv – Jewish cemetery

Rakhiv – Jewish cemetery

Yasynia

Yasynia – wooden church

Halych – Karaite cemetery

Halych – medieval church

Bilshivtsi – Jewish cemetery

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From the Flatlands to the Mountains

Posted on March 31, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues, Transcarpathia

Our route lead us along the Romanian border today. We found Jewish heritage sites in Vynohradiv, Sasovo, Khust, Tiachiv, Teresva and Solotvyno – and beyond this the traces of literally collapsed industries and profitable smuggling activities.

Vynohradiv – synagogue

Vynohradiv – beit midrash

Vynohradiv – Jewish cemetery

Sasovo – Jewish cemetery

Khust – synagogue

Khust – Jewish cemetery

Tiachiv – Jewish cemetery

Tiachiv – synagogue

Teresva – Jewish cemetery

Solotvyno – synagogue

Solotvyno – old Jewish cemetery

Solotvyno – collapsed salt mine

Solotvyno – new Jewish cemetery

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In the Borderlands to Hungary and Romania

Posted on March 30, 2018 by Christian Herrmann under Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues, Transcarpathia

Our Transcarpathia trip goes on. South of Mukachevo are towns and villages with traces of a rich Jewish heritage. Berehove is known for it, but we also found traces in Irshava, Velyki Komiaty, Khmilnyk, Siltse and Kamyanske – cemeteries and synagogues, and in Velyki Komiaty even the remains of a wooden synagogue.