Back in a different Ukraine

Posted on February 14, 2014 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

I’m back in Lviv (Lemberg, Lwow), and in front of me is another 10-day journey through Western Ukraine. Even though almost everything is superficialy unchanged since last year, I return in a completely different Ukraine.

Images and candles at the entrance of the Armenian church commemorate a young man of Armenian origion who was recently killed by the riot police in Kyiv.

Barricades at the occupied regional administration

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Plans for 2014

Posted on December 31, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Northern Bukovina

A new year, new plans. In the second half of February 2014 I will travel in Ukraine again – to places that are familiar to me and others that are unknown territory yet. Do you have recommendations?

1. Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), 2. Staryi Sambir, 3. Velyki Mosty, 4. Burshtyn, 5. Buchach, 6. Hrymailiv, 7. Sataniv, 8. Husiatyn, 9. Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), 10. Novoselitsa

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A last day in Ukraine

Posted on August 16, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

It’s almost a tradition for me, to have a walk through Lychakiv cemetery in Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) on the last day of a trip. The place is always impressive. Because of its imposing tombs, but also because of the visible conflict between Poles and Ukrainians. Since a few hours I’m back home. But my mind is still in Ukraine.

A walk through Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Ukrainian military cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Polish military cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Lychakiv cemetery – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg)

Hotel George

Lviv – Vienna, flight by Ausrian Airlines

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Back on the road

Posted on August 8, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

Welcome back to the world of potholes! It was impossible to get train tickets from Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) to Chernivtsi (Czernowitz) for today. The only alternative: 8 hour bus ride with a marshrutka (local mini-buses). At 34° C this is not a pure pleasure.

From Lviv to Chernivtsi – with many stops

Marshrutka

through Galicia

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Back in Ukraine

Posted on August 7, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

Cologne – Vienna – Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg), Austrian Airlines brought me and my friends Ingo and Sabine safely to Ukraine today. It’s nice to be back, good to know that you will stay at the wonderful Hotel George, nice to know that you are welcome there. The first thing we tried to do: buy train tickets. Tomorrow afternoon we hopefully continue to Chernivtsi (Czernowitz). There are unforeseen problems with the train reservations, which we hope to solve tomorrow.

Galicia under our wings

Arrival in Lviv

on the roofs of Lviv

Rynok – market square

Golden Rose Synagogue

a wedding in preparation

Armenian church

sleeping cat

Boim chapel

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It’s all gone, it’s still there

Posted on May 25, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Synagogues

Galicia and Bukovina are covered with partially or totally destroyed Jewish cemeteries. The grave stones were abused as building material during the German occupation and the years of Soviet rule. However, history does not just disappear. During construction works fragments of Jewish grave stones come to light. These stones raise questions – first of all the question of how we want to deal with the past.

Lviv – fragments of Jewish grave stones, April 2013

Lviv – fragments of Jewish grave stones, October 2012

Lviv – fragments of Jewish grave stones, misused as cobblestones, October 2012

Ivano-Frankivsk – fragments of Jewish grave stones, May 2013

Rohatyn – fragments of Jewish grave stones, April 2013

Ivano-Frankivsk – fragments of Jewish grave stones, May 2013

Rohatyn – fragments of Jewish grave stones, April 2013

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Galicia and Bukovina in Black and White (2)

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Jewish Cemeteries, Northern Bukovina, Synagogues

Here it is, the second half of the selection of black and white photos from the trip through Galicia and Bukovina in April and May 2013. The journey finally comes to an end and something new starts.

Ivano-Frankivsk – Jewish cemetery

Kalush – Jewish cemetery

Kuty – Jewish cemetery

Lysynychi – mass grave site

Nadvirna – Jewish cemetery

Pidhaitsi – synagogue

Pidhaitsi – Jewish cemetery

Rohatyn – old Jewish cemetery

Rohatyn – new Jewish cemetery

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A last day in Lviv

Posted on May 9, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

May 5. Easter Sunday in Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg). It’s the last day of our trip. A last time we walk through the city, let the multi-ethnic past and present of Galicia affect us. It is time to say goodbye.

Lviv – Armenian church

Lviv – Lychakiv cemetery

Travel companians: Petra, Achim and I

Lviv – airport

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Landscape after a Genocide

Posted on April 22, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia

Next to the village of Lysynychi – now a suburb of Lviv (Lwow, Lemberg) – tens of thousands of people were murdered by the SS and their helpers. No one knows how many. The numbers vary between 50,000 and 200,000. The victims were mainly Jews, but also members of the Polish resistance, Russian prisoners of war and thousands of Italian soldiers who were massacred by the Germans after the capitulation of Italy. Does something commemorate these crimes and their victims in the forest of Lysynychi? Today I was there.

Lysynychi – possible mass graves

Lysynychi – view down to the former camp

Lysynychi – asphalt factory

Lysynychi – small white flowers

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Travel Plans are almost complete

Posted on April 10, 2013 by Christian Herrmann under Eastern Galicia, Northern Bukovina

From April 21 to May 5 I go to Ukraine again. With me are two good friends, an old camera, a bunch of black and white films, a lot of travel plans and one of the most terrible books I have ever read. I hope to report from the trip while traveling. Do you have recommendations?